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LIFE ON THE MISSISSIPPI, Part 9.



BY MARK TWAIN





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TABLE OF CONTENTS


CHAPTER XLI.
The Approaches to New Orleans.—A Stirring Street.—Sanitary
Improvements.—Journalistic Achievements.—Cisterns and Wells.

CHAPTER XLII.
Beautiful Grave-yards.—Chameleons and Panaceas.—Inhumation and
Infection.—Mortality and Epidemics.—The Cost of Funerals.

CHAPTER XLIII.
I meet an Acquaintance.—Coffins and Swell Houses.—Mrs. O'Flaherty
goes One Better.—Epidemics and Embamming.—Six hundred for a
Good Case.—Joyful High Spirits.

CHAPTER XLIV.
French and Spanish Parts of the City.—Mr. Cable and the Ancient
Quarter.—Cabbages and Bouquets.—Cows and Children.—The Shell
Road. The West End.—A Good Square Meal.—The Pompano.—The Broom-
Brigade.—Historical Painting.—Southern Speech.—Lagniappe.

CHAPTER XLV.
"Waw" Talk.—Cock-Fighting.—Too Much to Bear.—Fine Writing.
—Mule Racing.











Chapter 41


The Metropolis of the South




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THE approaches to New Orleans were familiar; general aspectswere unchanged. When one goes flying through London along arailway propped in the air on tall arches, he may inspect milesof upper bedrooms through the open windows, but the lower half ofthe houses is under his level and out of sight. Similarly, inhigh-river stage, in the New Orleans region, the water is up tothe top of the enclosing levee-rim, the flat country behind itlies low—representing the bottom of a dish—and as the boatswims along, high on the flood, one looks down upon the housesand into the upper windows. There is nothing but that frailbreastwork of earth between the people and destruction.



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The old brick salt-warehouses clustered at the upper end ofthe city look

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