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MOGREB-EL-ACKSA
A JOURNEY IN MOROCCO
BY R. B. CUNNINGHAME GRAHAM
“Show me Sohailand I will show you the moon”
LONDON: DUCKWORTH & CO.
3, HENRIETTA STREET, COVENTGARDEN
p. ivPublished by William Heinemannin 1898.
Revised Edition issued by Duckworth and Co. in 1921.
All rights reserved
p. vTO
HAJ MOHAMMED ES SWANI EL BAHRI
I DEDICATE THIS BOOK
Not that he will ever read, or even, beinginformed of it, ever comprehend its nature, exceptin so far as to think it some “Shaitanieh”or another not to be understood.
But I do so because we have travelled much together,and far, and it must have been at times a soretemptation to him, in lonely places, to assurehimself of Paradise by “nobbling” anunbeliever. Still, I would trust myself withhim even to go the pilgrimage to Mecca; therefore,he must trust me when I swear not to have cast a spell onhim (as Christians will upon occasion) by writinghis name here for unbelieving men to wonder at.
p.viiPREFACE
TO WAYFARING MEN.
Sirs, the Holy Scriptures, which,as we know, were written for our learning, seem to imply thatsome of us are fools.
This may be so, and when I moralise, wrapped in the frequentcontemplation of my travels, upon lost opportunities, lack ofdiscernment, and on the general folly incident to all mankind,but which each man deems centred in himself, I think sotoo. But still a traveller in this travelling world, goingperhaps to nowhere, or to some place that he would rather nevervisit, cannot but find his most congenial public amongstwayfaring men. Therefore to you who, like myself, havecrossed, or even now are crossing, desert or pampa in the night;riding towards Capella, if in the southern hemisphere (Sohail inAfrica), keeping the wind a little blowing on your right cheek,dismounting now and then to smoke and slack the girths; thencamping on some river, sleeping fitfully and rising oft to viewyour horses feeding so quietly under the southern stars; or youwho in the liner, ocean tramp, or even “windjammer”are going somewhere for no special reason, I now addressmyself.
p.viiiWriters, I take it, firstly write to pleasethemselves, if not, ’tis ten to one their writing pleasesnobody. Following my postulate I have set down that whichple